Overlocker Tip
If sewing machines are complicated, some people are downright frightened of overlockers. Initially they LOOK complicated but if you think of them as having two needles with similar threading patterns to sewing machines and the two loopers are just like a continuous bobbin system, all of a sudden it doesn't seem that scary. Also remember; if it's really stressing you out, it may be worth getting us to talk you through it. Or purchasing a self threading Overlocker, they're quite handy.
Tips for the most common cause of overlocker anxiety;
Threading!
Check that your presser foot is up while threading, just like your sewing machine. They are built similarly as the presser foot is linked directly to the tensions and they open and close together.
Be calm and deliberate when you thread. Each overlocker has a unique threading order and threading paths. If you take your time, the outcomes are a lot more accurate and positive, both for you and the machine.
If a thread breaks, rethread your threads in order. This is not so important for the needle threads but for your looper threads are not threaded in order, they will continue to shred over and over. You don't have to pull the entire thread out and rethread but where the loopers cross, re-thread your looper eyes in the correct order.
Some machines have an easy threading lower looper mechanism. Check your manual and make sure you're not doing things the hardest way.
If your overlocking looks loopy along the edges it may NOT be your tension settings.
- It may be that there is fluff stuck in the tension discs that needs a flossing with some soft fabric scraps to get out.
- It may be that the thread is sitting on the outside of the discs and just need a bit of pressure on either side to get them to go in properly.
- Your cutter blade width is too narrow and needs to be widened slightly. Check your manual for where your machine has that setting.
- Your moveable chaining pin is set to rolled hem mode. Check your manual that it is in the right spot or how to change it back.
An easier way to think about threading for overlockers is in terms of your sewing machine. The left two threads are VERY similar to how the top thread of your sewing machine. The two right side threads are a sort of bobbin mechanism but they feel a lot more complicated.
To get better at threading, set aside a block of time to practice. Most machines have colour coded threading paths and a good way to learn them is to use thread in those same colours and examine how it forms the stitch, matching up which colour comes out where.
If threading truly gives you anxiety and you have the means, there are self threading overlockers available. They have air threading channels that pass the thread smoothly and quickly through the entire lower threading paths. It threads itself in seconds.
- The threading ports look VERY similar to oiling ports on older machines. Make sure you never go near them with any oil. The air channels need to stay as dry as possible.
- When inserting the thread into the threading ports, a habit might be to lick the ends of your threads to sharpen them, so the fluff doesn't stop the thread from going in. Once again the channels need to be as dry as possible so do not do this, instead snip the thread ends with sharp snips.
- When changing colours, always snip the threads at the top, near the spools, and drag them through from the needle; never out backwards. Pulling the thread backwards can drag lint back up through the air channels, clogging them up with fluff and rendering them useless.
Some notes on needles and thread and some problems they can cause.
Every overlocker uses a very specific needle that fits it's clearances. These are often not the generic domestic needles that fit most sewing machines. Brands do sometimes put a sticker somewhere on each model with the appropriate needle to use but if you can't find that, look up the correct kind in the user manual and write the needle system on the machine yourself.
Using the incorrect needle can cause the machine to skip stitches, if its too short or break the needles and cause damage if they're too long.
Some machines use a round shank needle. This can cause problems if you don't insert them facing the correct angle. An easy way to get this right is to put a sewing pin's point into the eye of the needle and line it up to face you then tighten the screw. Make sure the channel on the needle is also facing you.
Overlockers deal with most threads fairly well, but even they don't work if threaded up with horrendously awful quality thread. Try some proper sewing thread to check if it is misbehaving because of thread quality.
Tensions and how to troubleshoot them
A neat way to learn how your tensions work is thread up each thread in a different colour, then deliberately changing them one at a time. Sew a test piece with each dial at both '0' and '9' to total eight samples. Use these samples to examine the machine's behavior, taking note of what thread colour is doing what and use them to troubleshoot tension issues in the future.
If your machine can convert to rolled hem, check if there is an auto tension mechanism that is involved.
If the tensions have to be moved manually be sure to check that you have put them back to normal when you change the settings back from rolled hem.
If the edge.
Other things to remember
Remember to always put the thread 'ariel' up before you start. The machine will always snap threads or shred itself if you don't.
Get used to using your fingertips to feel if there is unwanted fabric bunching underneath. If you don't continually check, you have the heartbreak of accidentally letting the machine cut holes in
(Old or excessively dusty threads)
(What it looks like when your settings aren't right)
(If you've broken your chaining pins)
(If you use the wrong needles)
(if you hear schnick noises)
(if you leave it too long for service and it's full of felt)
(cutting blade is chewing the fabric.)